Adai technique

The Adai technique is an ancient and traditional method used to embellish the Kanjivaram sari. This meticulous and time-consuming process involves weaving motifs entirely by hand, without the aid of a jacquard machine, resulting in exquisite detail and pronounced texture. Many heirloom Kanjivaram saris feature patterns woven in Adai on the pallu. This highly skilled technique allows for the execution of intricate patterns on a larger scale, often taking the form of motifs within motifs or beautifully complex and elaborate designs that come to life on the drape. In a jacquard loom, the silk threads of the sari are connected to jacquard cards within a box-like machine. During weaving, this machine lifts the threads in specific patterns to create motifs on the drape. In contrast, the Adai loom requires an entirely manual process - the threads to be lifted by hand, often needing two pairs of hands while weaving. Although the Adai technique is more time-consuming and laborious, its loom setup is simpler than that of the jacquard loom, which is tedious to set up and change. The beauty of the Adai technique lies in its flexibility, as it is not restricted by shape or size like jacquard weaving. According to many master weavers of Kanchipuram, Adai weaving is akin to free-hand drawing and other art forms that cannot be confined within a frame or a box. Even the smallest and simplest patterns and motifs require intricate handweaving methods.