Applique is a craft technique of adorning the base fabric by patching small and patterned fabric pieces on top of it. It is similar to patchwork and is a highly laborious craft.
The Applique Craft is a unique sewing technique where the fabric patches are layered upon a foundation fabric to finally stitch in the same place with the help of a machine or by hand where the raw edges are turned or covered by decorative stitching. Something that stayed skiing with the kings of India irrespective of the situations, was the luxury that can be observed in the fine craftsmanship. Patchwork and Appliqué Patchwork and appliqué traditions exist among most communities. For many embroidery styles, master craftwork depends on keen eyesight. By middle age, women can no longer see as well and they naturally turn their skills and repertoire of patterns to patchwork, a tradition that was originally devised to make use of old fabrics.
The history of Applique Craft in India can be traced back to the earlier times in the northern regions of Gujarat, which can be identified with the help of their style of fabrication, composition, patterns, and similar others. The Kathis, Mahajans, the Nomad camel herders, were the prominent producers of applique crafts in the region.
Like patchwork, applique craftwork is the method of constructing or embroidering quilts. This craft is used around the globe to design banners, display items, or on clothes.
The traditional applique craftwork is made particularly on the fabrics of red, black, yellow, green, or white fabric. The base of the material is prepared in the shape of an oval, circle, square, or rectangle that will form the background. Over this stitched material, with varied colours of threads and tiny mirrors are added to the cloth after the embroidery is done.
The elegance of the applique craft depends on the intricacy of the work and the stitches, which are chikan, guntha, turpa, and similar other techniques. The beauty of the craft is enhanced with the correct choice and usage of small mirrors and metal pieces used in the cloth.
To start with the crafting, a colouring cloth will be cut with the required shape that is drawn with a stencil and stitched together to make the applique cloth. With the help of simple stitching techniques, the mirrors or metal pieces are attached to the cloth. Some artisans even stitch the borders along with other embroidery designs to give an attractive look.
Forms of Applique Works:
The concept of applique work generally revolves around stitching different clothes together in a specific design. With the usage of varied colours of threads, and the mirrors or metal pieces, the beauty of the work is enhanced. It can be a great way to adorn cushions, homewares, and similar others. The varied types of applique works are:
Raw-edge Applique:
This can be done by machine or through hand stitches, and some exquisite designs can be done without any hard work. This type of applique work is effective for smaller projects that do not require the proper finishing of the edges.
Smooth Edge Applique:
This type can be executed by machines to give the raw edges a smooth finish that makes the whole work look tidy and smooth.
Reverse or cut-work Applique:
It is quite an interesting type of applique work as instead of sewing the fabric on top, a layering is done and a motif is stitched at the top. The parts that reveal the shape are cut properly from the fabric.
Multiple-Hoop Needle Applique:
If more advanced designs are required and larger hoops, then this technique can be utilized. The stitches are created on the designs after which the fabric in the background is repositioned to get each section stitched equally. The Multiple-Hoop Needle Applique gives a more detailed design and complete look.
Decorative Stitch Applique:
While sewing with a machine, the decorative stitch applique work can be tried to make the fabric look more vibrant than all. The artisans with high sewing skills try this type of applique work that gives an exquisite look to the fabric.
Methods Of Applique Application:
The application method depends on the expertise in the craft, the type of design required, preferences, and similar other aspects. The prominent methods of applique application are:
Machine Applique:
There are two primary procedures for completing applique utilizing the sewing machine. The traditional procedure, which is more advanced, involves sewing an arrangement line, positioning your portion of fabric more massive than the line over the stitches, and then finishing the second row of stitches to affix the fabric to the base material. Once this is finalized, the extra fabric is trimmed away to disclose decorative applique patterns. This category of applique can be time-consuming but is rewarding.
Hand Applique:
Largely several variations of applique are done using a machine, but hand-applying applique is often utilized for quilting and is perfect for developing dimensional layouts on your fabric. Hand sewn applique is nearly just sewing a structure to a piece of fabric using a needle and thread, but there are various ways to do it.
Fused Applique:
Sewing applique by conventional means can be very time-consuming, so today a lot of people use fusible web which is normally an iron-on glue, to develop elegant designs. If you’re after a quick way to create a helpful design, the fusing procedure is your best bet. The fabric shapes are fused to the base fabric using the web, and then machine sewing on top holds the pieces together and provides an embroidered close.
Main Centres Of Applique Crafts
Applique craft is a major work of experimentation with varieties of fabrics and designs to bring out the best of the designs. Though the craft derives its origin from France, this ornamental craftwork has its roots spread in several parts of India where it has been present there from the early decades and the artisans produced famous applique crafts such as display pieces, banners, tents, and similar others. The prominent centres of applique work in India are the Saurashtra, Kutch, Patan, and Banaskantha regions of Gujarat. The specific colour palettes used by the artists in these regions are warm to cool, bright shades, and natural to neutral tones.
This craftwork is also prominently practiced in Orissa, particularly for the banners designed during the Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath. Pipli is a renowned name in the creation and survival of this unique craft.
Applique artisans belong to a community that migrated from Pakistan during the war of 1971 and settled in parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Presently most of the applique work is done in Barmer District of Western Rajasthan.
Phool Patti ka Kaam (Patti work, Patti ka kaam, Floral and leaf motifs) is a dying traditional craft of appliqué style embroidery practiced at Aligarh and Rampur, Uttar Pradesh. Phool Patti ka Kaam was the combination of patchwork and embroidery in which floral designs were created on clothes. The fabric cut pieces formed into motifs and hemmed onto the ground fabric and stems were embroidered along with stem stitches. The craft was famous during the Mughal period. The appliqué was done on fine muslins, white cotton fabric or organdy.
Khatwa is the local term for applique in Bihar and refers to intricately embroidered textiles that are ornamental or narrative, depending on the artisans' choice. It is a craft practised by both men and women, although typically more women artisans are engaged in the craft. Commonly used in shamianas and tents.
Patchwork is also a tradition of Punjab. Lambani embroidery and Kaudi, a blanket or bedspread are examples applique embroidery from Karnataka. Old Fabrics are cut into pieces and stitched with simple running stitch and Gubbi Kaalu stitch.
Gota from Rajasthan is a form of appliqué in gold thread, used for women's formal attire. This metallic lace is made up of metal-coated weft yarn, while the warp yarn includes ribbons of fibres like cotton and polyester. Small pieces of zari are stitched onto the fabric, with edges sewn down to create patterns. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns. Lengths of wider golden ribbons are stitched on the edges of the fabric to create an effect of gold zari work. Colloquially known as ‘lappe ka kaam’, (appliqué work), it comprises a series of motifs running through the fabric; this is further accentuated by the use of kinari, which means border decoration. The lace used for gota embroidery is believed to have its roots in Lucknow. It is also said that the craft was earlier practised by the Bisayati denomination of the Muslim community, subsequently spreading to other communities.
