Kadhua or Kadwa and Phekua or Phekwa or Fekua or Fekwa
In Kadwa (Kadhua) weaving, each motif is woven separately as opposed to other Banarasi handloom saris (also known as "Phekwa" or “Phekua” or cutwork saris). In Kadwa saris, there are no loose threads at the back of the fabric and hence, no cutting is required. The elaborate and laborious Kadhua technique is used to incorporate motifs. Using this technique, many different motifs of different sizes, colours and textures can be woven on the same sari, which is quite difficult to do otherwise. While this takes longer on the handloom, it makes a more robust pattern, which stands out on the fabric.
Kadiyal
Kadiyal technique helps achieve a border in a sharply contrasting colour to the rest of the body of the garment, a feat in itself in handloom weaving. This requires careful dyeing and setting of the warp in different colours and multiple changes in the weft shuttle while weaving.
Meenakari
Meenakari involves the painstaking addition of supplementary coloured resham threads during the hand-weaving process. This adds different colours to the pattern apart from the zari. Meenakari can be done both in the Kadhua or the Phekua (cutwork style).
Tanchoi
Tanchoi is a weaving technique that involves a single or double warp and multiple (usually two to five) coloured wefts, often of the same or very close shades. It produces a self-design, which covers the fabric and ensures that there is no float on the back. It is famed for the intricate and small weaving patterns all over the fabric. Narrow borders, in the same palette as the sari, is another distinct feature of the traditional Tanchois. Resham threads are used in Tanchois whereas the Tanchoi Brocades comes Interwoven with zari
Jangla
One of the oldest weaving techniques practised in Banaras. All over jaals, flowers and creepers cover the body of the fabric to create a rich and dense design. Only when an all over jaal has been woven in a full Kadhua weaving technique, is the pattern referred to as a Jangla.
Jamawar
The intricate paisley motifs and designs on a Jamawar fabric give it a distinctive appearance. The design in a Jamawar is completely woven into the fabric with no loose threads on the back.
