Kala Cotton of Kutch is the original pure old-world cotton of India. Khamir's Kala Cotton Initiative encourages sustainable cotton textile production, and the preservation of agricultural and artisan livelihoods in Kutch. There was a clear need to develop a local value chain in order to insulate the weavers from external market fluctuations. To do this, a raw material was required that was locally grown, environmentally friendly, that had the potential to create social value.
Kala Cotton is indigenous to Kutch and by default organic, as the farmers do not use any pesticides and synthetic fertilizers. It is a purely rain fed crop that has a high tolerance for both disease and pests, and requires minimal investment. It is both resilient and resurgent in the face of stressful land conditions.
Kala Cotton is one of the few genetically pure cotton species remaining in India, and one of the only species of pure, old- world cottons to be cultivated today on a large scale. It forms a strong, coarse, stretchable fibre that is often used in denim.
‘Khamir’ began this initiative in 2007, by partnering with ‘Satvik’, an association of organic farmers in Kutch, to explore the production possibilities for Kala Cotton.
As the cotton’s short staple length makes it difficult to spin and weave, Khamir and Satvik first consulted with many experts to develop a process for converting it into yarn. Additionally, local weavers had to be convinced of the value of Kala Cotton – a particular challenge since weaving it requires changes in the loom set-up, as well as differing yields and shafts. After years of experimentation and perfecting both spinning and weaving techniques, Khamir began producing its first Kala Cotton goods in 2010.
Today, the Kala Cotton Initiative encourages sustainable cotton textile production in harmony with local ecology. The project aims to create a value chain at multiple levels by working with marginalized communities and promoting locally grown species. To implement this initiative, Khamir and Satvik have created a supply chain between the Kala Cotton farmers, ginners, spinners and weavers to convert the raw cotton into hand woven products. It is hoped that eventually, “the Kala Cotton Initiative will serve as an example for other communities to replicate."
