‘Kalakshetra Weaving Centre’ was inaugurated in 1937, by Rukmini Devi Arundale and the weavers were brought from Kanchipuram, the yarn from Bangalore which was twisted to the three-ply murukku pattu.
At Kalakshetra the skill was harnessed to the recovery of forgotten traditional motifs along with some experimentation in keeping with the norms of tradition. The broad borders returned, memories were tapped for old designs, old available material was collected, and a record book maintained.
Soon a special kind of handwoven sari, both cotton and silk, came to be called "Kalakshetra Sari" - its distinctive feature being deep colours, broad borders with traditional designs. Its quality, durability and beauty made the sari a cherished and coveted possession. Though the centre in its heyday wove dhotis, handkerchiefs, shawls and a few bookcovers, the sari remained its chief and highly acclaimed product.
Some of the designs revived by Kalakshetra are the "Mubbhagam" in which the width of the sari is divided into 3 equal parts running along the whole length. Rettai Pettu borders are characteristic of this design and usually these saris have two pallus, one grand and one simple, one in each of the border colours. So, they can be worn with either way interchanging the colours at the top and bottom. The Tazambu design, Puliankottai, Rudraksham, Vazhaippu, Mallimokku, Aatumuzhi, Panneershombu and Nelivanki were among revived embellishments.
Tazambu - saw tooth
Puliankottai - tamarind seed
Rudraksham - rudraksh
Vazhaipu - banana flower
Mallimokku - jasmine bud
Aatumuzhi - elephant eye
Panneerchombu - rose water sprinkler
Nelivanki - ardh chandra
A complex weaving technique known as 'Korvai' is used to interlace the borders with the body of the sari. The contrasting colours of the borders in the weaving of the weft are interlinked with the body of the weft with each throw of the shuttle. Two weavers are required, one to operate the threads for the central portion and another to operate the border colours.
Since borders often appear on both sides of the saris, each Kanjivaram sari requires three shuttles. The elaborate pallus are also linked to the main body of the sari using a special interlinking weave known as 'Petni.' In the hands of the skilled craftsman, this joint looks like one continuous weave. This tradition of saris is also distinguished by its motifs, often inspired by the beautiful carvings found in the temples of Kanchipuram.
