Deriving its name from the town of its birth, a Kanchipuram weave has long been a treasure of the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Located about 72km from Chennai, Kanchipuram gained eminence during the reign of Krishnadeveraya, a 16th century emperor of the Vijayanagara Kingdom. It is during this period that two weaving communities, the Devangas and Saligars are believed to have migrated here from Andhra Pradesh.
They were experts at weaving silk saris and legend has it that they were descendants of Sage Markanda, a master weaver who is believed to have woven tissue from lotus fibre. The pattu-nool (thread) came from Karnataka while the zari travelled here from Surat. Families often wove together, as several hands were needed to wind the thread in the beam. Saris were bought by temples to drape goddesses and kings purchased them for the boudoir. Tourists visiting the temple also bought them as blessed mementos. From Kanchipuram, the saris often made their way to Chennai (erstwhile Madras), the wealthy trading centre of the times.
The weaving of a Kanchipuram sari requires the use of three shuttles and the weaver and his aide work on the two sides. The colour and design of the border is usually quite different from the body. In its most traditional form, the pallu is woven separately in a different shade before being delicately joined to the sari. The part where they meet is often denoted by a zig-zag pattern.
Motifs in the Kanjivaram sari vary between those borrowed from nature such as sun, moon, chariots, peacocks, parrots, etc. or those based on temples, palaces and paintings. Other common motifs include the mallimoggu, a jasmine bud within a round or square frame. Another is Thandavalam where parallel lines run across the body of the sari. One can even see scenes from the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata represented on the sari. In addition to the motifs, the sari is ornamented with pure zari.
The rich weaving traditions of Kanjivaram silk saris and the unique motifs that decorate them are a testament to the ageless allure and grandeur of this silken weave, which belongs in a bridal trousseau as much as it does in a connoisseur’s treasure trove.
