Let’s take a look at the cloth synonymous with the Mahatma, which has moved on from the Fabric of Freedom to the Fabric of Fashion.
When Mahatma Gandhi brought Khadi into the lives of Indians, little did he realise that his humble handspun yarn and fabric would turn into a fashion statement in the 21st century. To highlight the spirit of non-violence, Gandhiji chose the Charkha and the fabric woven from Khadi yarn as the symbol of patriotism, sustenance, hardwork and self-reliance.
The cloth is usually woven from cotton and may also include silk, or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a spinning wheel called a Charkha. It is a versatile fabric, cool in summer and warm in winter. In order to improve the look, khādī/khaddar is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel.
Handspinning on the traditional Desi Charkha unfortunately, has become the most neglected and forgotten strength of Khadi whereas, the faster semi-mechanized Ambara Charkha has been in favour over the last 50 years.
The word Khadi is derived from ‘Khaddar’ which essentially means a fabric developed through weaving of handspun yarns on a handloom. The entire process i.e. separation of cotton from the cotton seed, cleaning, combing, carding, spinning of yarn and weaving of fabric is all carried out by hand.
Khadi was widely produced and used for clothing and home linen all over India until the influx of mill yarns imported by the British at first and later substituted by Indian mills. As a result, handlooms began to use mill yarns as they were smoother, stronger and easier to handle on the loom though that essentially meant compromising on the texture of the handspun fabrics.
Difference between Desi Charkha and Ambar Khadi.
The hand spun yarns of the traditional spinning wheel have a much lower twist than the mechanized Ambar spinning wheel which is a manual counterpart to the mill spinning mechanism. Thus, the fabric developed through weaving of hand spun yarn is more soft, supple and absorbent.
Why Desi Charkha Khadi?
- Uses indigenous rain fed organic cottons
- Makes for an ecologically viable and sustainable activity
- Employs fine hand skills especially of women
- Cotton seeds are extracted by hand thus they can be reused for sowing back into the fields and is also used in animal feed.
- Drawing and twisting by hand renders an uneven texture and low twist to create greater absorbency for summer and these yarns provide warmth in winter
- Ideal for wearing and home use. Healthy, supple, soft and soothing to touch for any skin type
