A Mangalagiri sari is usually made of superfine, sturdy, thick-yarn cotton, though now they are also available in silk. The body of the sari usually has self-checks or at best it is a plain solid colour. A good Mangalagiri sari falls well and stays well long after it is worn. The zari border, is also simple, with simple line patterns or chevrons at best without any elaborate motifs. The most distinct part of the zari border is its peculiar width – quite unlike the wide Kanjivaram or the Gadwal border. Surprisingly enough, the thickness of the Mangalagiri border is very similar to the thickness of the Maheshwari border – except that the Maheshwari border may or may not be in gold. The Mangalagiri border is always in zari. The Mangalagiri border is also called the ‘Nizam’ border, very typical of the Mangalagiri region. The pallu of the sari is always a continuation of the body with slightly greater density of gold lines running across. This sari is available in exciting shades of all colours and is a classy treat for the eyes and it is difficult to choose a single colour.
And once again, like a template – the name of this sari is after the town Mangalagiri, in Guntur – now the administrative capital of Telangana. Mangalagiri was and still continues to be an important religious centre and weaving centre. Way back in early 16th century, weaving prospered because the sari was offered to the deity as ‘prasadam’. The compulsory buying of saris for religious purposes led to the growth of weaving of cotton and cotton saris. Adding zari was an obvious choice because the saris with gold were considered more auspicious than the plain ones. It is an interesting phenomenon; all over India, silk is considered as the fabric for worship. I suppose the rich cotton harvests in this region made cotton a more accessible choice. The Mangalagiri sari, like other cotton saris, can be a little maintenance heavy if you want to retain the lustre of the zari border – which is not real. Without adequate care the sari can start to fade. So, if you love your Mangalagiri, take good care of it and protect it from harsh chemical washes.
