Embroidery has been a source of income in Lucknow for centuries. Mukaish work also known as Mokaish, Marori, Mukeish, Mukesh or Badla is a type of embroidery which involves twisting thin metallic threads to create patterns all over the fabric.
Although the most common pattern is dots, other patterns are also created in Mukeish work. This form of embroidery was first developed for the royalty that resided in the city as part of their finery since Mukeish work initially used precious metals like gold and silver to make threads. While pure Mukeish work saris were highly exclusive, Mukeish work in itself was seen as an accompaniment to Chikankari. As the metallic threads used in Mukeish work were initially precious metals such as gold and silver, this craft was capital intensive. Mukeish work takes on two avatars i.e. Fardi ka Kaam that women do within their homes and Kamdani which is done by elderly men. Mukeish work is a time-taking procedure.
The process follows three basic steps:
Step 1: Chapaayi The motif is first printed on the fabric using a mixture of gum and neel (indigo powder). This print can be transferred onto the fabric using either a block or a perforated paper stencil.
Step 2: Takaayi The metal that is being used is usually in the form of a wire. These are first stretched into strips and are then passed through the fire so that the metal takes on different hues. This is then cut into wires of finer breadths. Next, they are beaten using a smaller hammer so that the density of the wire is almost paper thin. Only when such density is achieved can the wire be weaved in and out of something as delicate as a fabric. Moreover, this density adds finesse to the overall look as opposed to such delicate embroidery made of thick chunks.
Step 3: Ghutaayi Once the embroidery has been done, the fabric is spread out flat on the ground over a blanket (so as to avoid accumulation of dirt and stains). The embroidery is then rubbed thoroughly over with a glass bottle or cowrie shells.
This is done to work out any lumps in the embroidery. It also burnishes the metal and leaves it brighter and shinier. Mukeish embroidery can be manifested in two patterns or ways known as Fardi Ka Kaam and Kamdani. These patterns are created during the process of Takaayi and have vastly different end results in terms of their design.
Fardi ka Kaam : Fardi, literally translated, means dots. It is basic yet one of the most widely recognized and loved forms of Mukeish work. There are many sizes and patterns in which these dots are stitched and each has a different name.
•Hazaar Batti: Characteristic of Lucknow, it is the thousand dots design.
•Tikki: These manifest as flattened sequins
•Challa: Translates and manifests into ‘rings’.
The Tikki and Challa are extensively used and their primary purpose is to enhance the overall design. The width of the wire determines the size of the dots; finer the dots the more expensive they are. The widths of the wires are referred to in decimals i.e. 0.4 being the largest, 0.2 which is slightly smaller and finally 0.1 being the smallest.
Kamdani: In Kamdani, to make the process of threading a needle easier, the wire is attached to a small length of thread. These wires can be worked into any number of patterns and motifs, thereby becoming popular as ‘fancy kaam’. The whole process is more indicative of applique, than embroidery. Thus, it may be called metal applique.
