The Pasapalli sari with its distinctive black-and-white squares is a replica of the chessboard. Equally fascinating are the names—Bichitrapuri, Chandrika, Nabagunja, Asman Tara and Krishnapriya. The earlier yarns of coarse cotton have been replaced with fine cotton, silks, tussar and a cotton-silk mix called ‘batts’. Gold thread and tissues are also used to enhance the patterns.
Made from exclusive handloom fabric called pata, Bichitrapuri saris are an essential part of wedding trousseaus in Odisha and mostly appear in traditional black and grey, reflecting the bandhakala or the tie-and-dye craftmanship of Sambalpuri weavers. Pasapalli saris enjoy a traditional craftmanship dating back to 200 years. The saris are brilliantly crafted by the weavers of Sonpur in the Suvarnapur district of Odisha and are locally popular as ‘Bichitrapuri’