The distinct feature of Uppada silk saris is their light weight and intricate designs, which are often achieved through the Jamdani method, a traditional weaving technique that allows for the inclusion of detailed motifs and patterns in the weave itself. In Uppada the count used is 100 (length) – 120 (breadth). The count makes the quality of the fabric. The weavers in Uppada use a technique without any mechanical aids to weave the traditional Jamdani weaving to create rich patterns using gold and silver zari for which Uppada sari weavers received Geographical Indication (GI) registration in the year 2009.
Dyeing: - First the yarn is washed and then dipped in the required colour which is in a boiler and the worker goes on turning the yarn so that the colour is evenly mixed in the yarn. The most important aspect in this process is the mixing of colours which will give unique and durable colour to the fabric. Then it is again washed and dried. These yarns are then starched. Starching of the yarn is where the colour in the yarn will get more permanent in nature and give the yarn a polished look. The starched yarn is brought from the merchants by master weavers and is distributed to weavers. Then it is turned in a charka. The turning in charka is where the yarn will become thread, which is used for the weft.
The loading of yarn in warp is the next process. Then yarn is loaded into the looms. The length of yarn which is loaded as warp is known as Pacham. A weaver can make four saris from one pacham. It will take a week to weave one Pacham of four saris. The cost of Uppada saris vary from Rs 5,000 to 80,000 and some intricate ones might also go upto over 3 Lakh in case of specially ordered wedding saris. The name of Ghanshyam Sarode is intrinsically linked to Uppada saris. During the year 1988 he re-introduced an age-old weaving technique called Jamdani in a tiny village named Uppada in Andhra Pradesh. In traditional Jamdani weaving, no mechanical aids are used to create the pattern. Reproducing a Jamdani proves exceptionally difficult because of the great distance of time that separates the weavers from the skill and intricacy of the purely hand-manipulated process.
