Aari work embroidery, also known as hooked needle work, is a beautiful form of traditional Indian embroidery that is often said to have originated in Barabanki, Uttar Pradesh, and later found its way to Kutch, Gujarat. This exquisite craft owes its origins to the shoemaker or cobbler community, who introduced the chain stitch and applied intricate designs to fabric using the aari needle. However, historical records show Aari to have originated in 12th century or earlier in Kashmir due to Persian influence. The style then travelled and different regions transform the embroidery with their unique flavour.
Aari work embroidery is renowned for its intricate detailing and the use of the aari needle. The aari needle, also known as the hooked needle, is the primary tool used in this technique. It is a long, slender needle with a hook at one end, resembling a crochet hook. The hook allows the artisan to easily catch and manipulate the thread, creating intricate and precise stitches. The aari needle is used to create various types of stitches, including the chain stitch, the satin stitch, and the bead stitch. Each stitch adds a unique texture and dimension to the embroidery, enhancing the overall beauty of the design. The aari needle allows for precise control over the thread, making it possible to create intricate patterns and motifs with ease. One of the distinguishing features of aari work embroidery, outside Kashmir, is the use of beads. Bead work is an integral part of this craft, adding shimmer and sparkle to the designs. The beads are carefully stitched onto the fabric using the aari needle, creating a stunning embellishment that catches the light and adds a touch of glamour to the embroidery. Sequins and stones are also used as a form of embellishment.
The process of creating aari work embroidery involves several steps. First, the design is drawn onto the fabric using a pencil or a washable marker. Then, the fabric is stretched tightly on a wooden frame called a “khaka.” The artisan then uses the aari needle to carefully stitch the design onto the fabric, following the marked lines.
Each stitch is meticulously executed, ensuring that the thread is pulled tightly to create neat and even stitches. The artisan may use different colours of thread to bring the design to life, adding depth and dimension to the embroidery. Once the stitching is complete, the beads are added, meticulously sewn onto the fabric to enhance the design further.
