Saris from different regions reflect the cultural identity of the region with unique features that have evolved over a period of time suitable to the climatic conditions, topography, cultural heritage with an aesthetic sense and skill of the master weavers. Gharchola saris of Khambhat cluster is one such product which is immensely popular in Gujarat and its surrounding states.
Both Gharchola and Panetar form an intrinsic part of a Gujarati wedding. During the wedding rites, the bride wears a Panetar which is considered to be the last garment she receives from her parents and during the ceremony her mother-in-law gifts her with a Gharchola. This signifies that the bridegroom’s family is ready to take all her responsibility from that day onwards. In certain families the custom is considered so acutely that the bride is expected to change her Panetar and immediately wear her Gharchola. Nowadays, after the bride receives her Gharchola she puts it on her head and shoulder for the wedding rituals. During the seven pheras around the auspicious fire, one end of her Gharchola is tied to the shawl being carried by the groom confirming the auspicious knot.
Traditionally there used to be challenges faced by the bride’s family in the selection of Panetar. Conventionally Panetar is always woven in Silk whereas Gharchola used to be authentically and traditionally woven in cotton. Considering the rich appearance of silk, it used to appear more opulent than the cotton Gharchola. And as the groom’s family is considered the more dominant in the society, it was not a very accepted situation. The bride’s family used to always select the simplest and plainest design patterns in Panetar and hence used to keep away from the aspect of social variance.
The unique speciality of a Panetar sari is its white body with rich red border and pallu. Panetar, the wedding sari which is gifted to Hindu and Jain brides by her maternal uncle is one of the simplest yet most aesthetically and meticulously designed wedding sari. The plain white body is woven in Gajji silk with linear stripes or checks in gold zari, nowadays they are also being made in plain bodies with Bandhani motifs. The border and pallu which are dyed red are minimally adorned by tie and dye embellishment. The motifs are simple abstract motifs highlighted with white or yellow dots.
The Gharchola saris are the most symbolic element of a Hindu or Jain wedding in Gujarat. The weaving technique of the Gharchola silk saris first came from the region around Cambay. These saris are first woven by using silk and zari thread and are later embellished by tie and dye or bandhani work. The golden grid pattern of a Gharchola sari, dyed in rich red and pecked white dots illustrating varied themes, make the ceremony of wedding or any other ritual a picturesque and glorified occasion.
A typical Gharchola sari is marked by the large zari checks, 12 section patterns is known by the name of 'Bar bagh' and the 52 square saris are known by the name of 'Baavan bagh'. These checks carry small golden motifs, the most common motifs used in the Gharchola saris are those of peacocks, lotus, human figures, floral patterns and the like. Where more than two colours are used, the design is known as ‘Phulwari’ or garden and where animal motifs predominate it is known as ’Shikari’ which means hunting scene. The main colour used is red, with white and yellow dots, though green Gharcholas are also fabricated based on personal request of the client.
Gharchola weaving also is a special technique which was traditionally hand woven in Porbandar and then sent to Jamnagar for Bandhani.
