Manipur is famous for its special fabrics like Moirang phee, Leirum, Lasingphee and Phanek. Tribal textiles are woven on a loin-loom, a type of back-strap loom commonly used by hill people. The warp of manageable length and breadth is prepared and fastened at one end generally to the wall of a house or to two fixed poles while the other is tied to the waist of the weaver with a cotton or leather belt. Sometimes the belt is woven out of cane or bamboo. Weaving is universal and every girl knows how to weave. The loom forms part of her dowry. Weaving is done purely for personal use, by the women, while highly organised commercial weaving is done by men.
There is an aura of religion and romance around cotton-weaving. Each process and design are highlighted by a legend and connected with special functions, dances, and ceremonies. Ningthou phee and Akoibi are based on snake motifs and the design is worn by royalty. These designs are mostly found on the Phaneks. Tradition has it that when a weaver used to sit down to weave the Ningthou phee, the royal design, a gun salute would be fired in honour. A black shawl with thick, bold embroidered animal motifs is called the Angami naga (Sami Lami Phee). It was given to brave and distinguished warriors by the royalty, in recognition of their prowess and ability. Shaphee Lanphee is a traditional textile fabric woven and embroidered, usually as a shawl, with embroidered motifs with cotton threads generally by Meitei women of Manipur. The fabric was, in the past, presented as a gift of honour (Mana Phee) to the soldiers for their bravery in a successful war, and to the praise-worthy chiefs of the Nagas of Manipur by the king of Manipur. It is a product which is protected under the GI registration and is now made throughout the Indian state of Manipur. The literal meaning of the fabric 'Shaphee' is "the fabric of animal and war". It is exclusivity a product of Khoisnam lineage. It is said that the king saw a man of Khoisnam clan wearing this Shaphee Lanphee and riding a horse. The king then adopted it as a form of honouring brave Naga Chiefs of Manipur. According to manuscript titled Loiyumba Silyen, King Loiyumba (1074–1122 AD) authorised this product to be woven by the Khoisnam family.The product was revived in the 20th century with the efforts of Maisnam Nalini Devi, a weaver from Wangkhei Yonglan, her sister Maisnam Anita and their mother Keinahanbi who had both won the state award in 1992 for promoting this product. Nalini also won the Master Crafts Person award in 2009 for promoting this craft.
Shaphee Lamphee embroidery is done over a black coloured cloth with red border. The motifs embroidered on the fabric consists of several designs, and some of the common designs adopted are: of animals such as "shamu" (elephant), "shagol" (horse), "iroichi" (buffalo horn), "wahong" (peacock), and "Nga" (fish); planets such as "numit" (sun), tha (moon); Thawanmichak (star) ; and phantup (magical seat, ta (spear) – these designs are done in a set pattern and sequence of operation. The embroidery is done by hand using needle and yarns of cotton. Wangkhei Phee is a textile fabric made of white cotton and is popularly worn by Manipuri ladies as a special clothing item for marriage ceremonies and other festive occasions. The fabric is transparent and has many designs on its body. The fine cotton fabric is known as “Wangkhei Phee” since the fabric was first developed in the Wangkhei area by skilled weavers, who were then stationed near the palace, for the Royal family, . The fabric is extremely delicate prepared in fine cotton yarn. The interlacement of two threads, i.e. weft and warp in the series, are woven far apart from each other, and as such, the cloth is almost transparent. The Manipuri weavers had been weaving this kind of cloth by using the extra weft technique designs of Kheiroithek, Thangjing Tangkhai, Kabok Chaiba, and many others with Moirang Phee Designs on both of its longitudinal borders. Extra weft designs are woven in nature, like, floral, fruits, motifs, etc. It is one of the most luxurious items for ladies among the local clothes used on different occasions. Phaneks are woman's lungies and the Innaphi is the cloth that’s draped over the blouse. Likli or bottle designs resembling a loom-accessory and Lasing phee (a quilted design to keep warm in winter as Manipur has no wool) are popular. Sami Lami is a combination of weaving and embroidery once considered a status symbol. The Maibung is said to be a copy of a natural design, resembling the grains of wood as revealed when it is chopped clean. Hijamayak, which is a boat form, has a restricted use as it is associated with death ceremonies. Horses, swords, and spears for use in rituals form motifs of typical borders in saris. The patterns in use here are typical of the region. Bold colours and geometrical patterns are in evidence in most of their textiles. Lai phi is a Phanek with a specific design element while Chin phi is an Innaphi with intricate yellow borers on white base worn during special festivities.
The Lasingphee (quilted cotton material) is produced in Manipur and used as a covering in winter. Colours are obtained from natural sources and the juice of wild indigo is used as a black or dark blue dye. A bark from the plains is used for a red shade, and green, yellow, and orange are obtained from the barks of jungle trees. Phi means cloth in Meithei. The “Moirang- Phee” is a textile fabric that has a specific design called ‘Moirangpheejin’ which is woven sequentially on both longitudinal edges of the fabric and oriented towards the centre of the cloth with cotton or silk threads. Originally, it was first developed in the Moirang village of Bishnupur district. The name of this particular cloth also carries significant meaning and beliefs. It is believed that the Moirangphee was first made by the local people as a token of tribute to the then royal family of Manipur. A characteristic feature of the Moirang phee chaddar is the triangular form along the border.
The “Moirang Pheejin” design which is woven in the Moirang Phee is derived from the pronged teeth of the “Pakhangba”, the Pythonic God of Manipur mythology. The name of this Moirang Phee fabric with Moirang Pheejin design along the border was also known as’ Yarongphi’ in the local name (ya = tooth and rong = long = longba = pronged). The popular Moirang phee saris woven in white or soft colours carry the mandir shikhara (temple top) on the border with dotted patterns on the body. Moirang is the name of a place in Manipur. Moirang is about 45 kms. from Imphal and is a very sacred place for the Manipuri people. It holds an ancient temple of the pre-Hindu deity, Lord Thangjing There is a belief that this pattern was created by the Goddess Morangfi herself. Moilang or Moirang (modern term) is one of the seven clans of the Meitei people. Moirang consists of many several Yumnaks which are native peoples of ancient Kangleipak (now Manipur), one of the states of India. Moirang clan is considered most rich clan in terms of culture as reflected in Khamba and Thoibi.
Potloi or Polloi (literally, "final product" or "end product") is a cylindrical skirt made up of thick fabric (often velvet) that is ornamented with sequins and mirrors. It is usually used by the Meitei Hindu brides in Meitei wedding and the dancers in the Manipuri Rasa Leela dance. Notably, it is not used by the brides in traditional (Sanamahist) Meitei wedding. Interestingly, Radha and Chandrabali wear green Potloi and red blouse whereas the Gopis wear red Potloi and green blouse in the Manipuri dance. Kajenglei (Old Manipuri: Kachenglei), also known as Leitreng (Old Manipuri: Leitaleng), is a traditional Meitei headdress crown, worn by women. It is worn by brides during marriage ceremonies as well as by artists during the dance performances. It consists of eighty to hundred brass strips. These are attached to red flannel strips one centimeter in width and tied around a circular metal ring. Both Potloi and Kajenglei are testaments to the exquisite handwork of Manipuri people.
